Karratha to Broome

Karratha to Broome


After stocking up in Karratha and getting a new lid for our car frig, in preparation for a week of camping and not knowing whether or not we would get a powered site, we headed north for the Eighty Mile Beach, half way between Port Hedland and Broome. On the way we visited the famous Whim Creek Hotel, 80 km north of Karratha, a landmark in a former cyclone when the visitors sheltered in a container to wait out a cyclone. It had rained heavily during the night but was fine when we left. We subsequently heard when we were at the park that they had had very heavy rain out in the Karinjini on two nights and camping was very uncomfortable, particularly with the red iron ore dirt/mud. A young abseiler also had to be rescued as he had a broken leg. At the time there were news reports of an enquiry into the death of an SES volunteer who had been caught in a flash flood rescuing two separate walkers. It brings home how dangerous and unpredictable the gorges can be.

North of Pt Hedland it started to rain again and the prospect of putting up a tent in wet weather did not appeal. We were able to phone the park ahead and got a budget room for at least one night and then intended to pitch our tent. The room was very basic but had a frig, television and air conditioner, and was right outside all the amenities, bbq, camp kitchen etc. We were so comfortable we decided to stay on there for six nights and cancel a booking we had made to go into Barnhill Station, a cattle station on the beach further north, particularly when we heard some uncomplimentary remarks about it. The park had a very good kiosk and they baked fresh bread and pastries every morning.

We were about 100 metres from the beach which stretched as far as the eye could see. The water was shallow but very popular for fishermen. Several quite large threadfin salmon were caught while we were there, and one wall of the kiosk was full of photos of catches (only in the last couple of weeks). Swimming was not recommended at all, and during the time there we saw several stingrays in the water in about knee height water.

We spent the days taking long beach walks, and relaxing outside the cabin. One day we took the car for a drive up the beach but turned back when we got to a very rocky area. Put the awning up and had lunch anyway. The evening sunsets were brilliant and every evening took our chairs, camera and a drink to watch the sun set. On Sundays they have a market at which visitors sell their wares, and I saw a sign that there would be a hairdresser there, so lined up and had my hair cut out in the open by a hairdresser from Geraldton who was on a trip with her husband. One way of making pin money.

We met so many interesting people as we were so close to the bbq’s etc. Lots of retired and semi- retired, but also several families with young children,and backpackers from overseas. One very interesting guy came in one night on an off road motorcycle and we found he had travelled from London, across Europe, the Middle East, India and Asia, before putting his bike on a ship to New Zealand, where he again travelled all around there before arriving in Australia. He had been up through central Australia along the outback tracks, Darwin and through the Kimberleys and Karinjini and was heading south. His next plan was to ship the bike to South America and then ride from the southern tip up to Alaska. He has given himself several years to do the whole trip.

We were due in Broome for the 16th June so left 80 mile beach after a very relaxing time and arrived mid afternoon. Weather was around 29 deg. but a nice breeze made it very comfortable. After checking in and driving into China Town for a quick look we packed a picnic and headed for Cable Beach to watch the sunset. This time we had the added advantage of watching the camels going for their walks and arriving back just as the sun set. Well timed! There were many cars on the beach and it is a very popular pastime. We did this on several nights as each night, depending on the clouds, the sunsets are different.

Each day we took long walks and even ventured into the surf, which proved not so good for me as I got knocked over and had difficulty in getting up. Waves were dumping and there was a very strong undertow. Fortunately Heinz saw I was having a bit of trouble and came to help. We found a great place for a light lunch overlooking the beach so timed our walks so we could have lunch later.

We met up with some friends of Heinz from Mildura who were taking part in an off road bike trip around the Kimberleys. There were 24 of them in all with three support vehicles. They had trailed the bikes across the Tanami Desert Road, and from Broome took a two week trip right up into the Kimberleys into many gorges, and up to Cape Leveque, over some very rough roads. We met up again the following night to watch the “staircase to the moon”, one of the features of Broome when the moon and tides combine to create an illusion of a staircase across the sandy flats. Unfortunately the first night was very cloudy and the moon was not visible at all.

The next day we met up with a friend from Sydney, who had arrived into Broome after a trip from Darwin on an organized outback tour. It was very windy that day so that night we went back to see the staircase again and were rewarded by a most wonderful sight. A band was playing on the lawn and at the precise time the moon started to rise, a brilliant didgeridoo player played a traditional aboriginal tune for the rising of the moon. It was a very moving experience.

We really enjoyed our time in Broome, the weather was fine and warm, even if a bit windy, and the relaxed tropical nature of the place (and pearl shopping!), made it another great week, and time to regroup before heading off to the Kimberleys and along the Gibb River Road to Kununurra.

Coral Bay to Karratha

Coral Bay to Karratha, via Karinjini National Park

We left the beautiful waters around Coral Bay to drive over to Tom Price and the Karinjini National Park in the Hamersley Ranges. We headed up the sealed highway towards Exmouth and then over the to North West Coastal highway, stopping at Nanutarra Roadhouse where unleaded petrol was $1.96/litre (no premium unleaded petrol available). At least we were served by an attendant!, who helped Heinz to fill up the 2 x 20 litre vessels of extra fuel. Stopped for lunch at a roadside picnic area close to a riverbank and shared our table with a couple from Queensland who told us about some properties where they had camped. We chose not to take the sealed road into Tom Price via Paraburdoo which would have added another 40 km to our trip and went onto the unsealed road for about 68 km (not suitable for caravans). Tom Price is a small mining town which is quite attractive with lots of trees planted, and it is also the gateway to the Karinjini National Park. Great to stock up for supplies. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take the 4WD drive up to Mt Nameless which has stunning views of the ranges as it was closed off.

The next morning we headed off for our first camping adventure at the Dales Gorge camp site, about 110 km out into the Karinjini. We checked into the camp site for three nights. Instruction #1 to erect the tent is “select a site free of stones”. Well the designers need to visit some of these Pilbara areas because all sites are red dirt and full of sharp stones. When Heinz said “Jean, select where we pitch the tent”, the look on my face said NOT HAPPY JEAN! and it was time for some reassuring words. (It was also my first camping experience so not an easy initiation). Fortunately Heinz had bought the high tensile pegs, which were still very hard to get in the ground but some 1-1/2 hours later we were able to sit down and have lunch, trying to keep the red dirt out of the tent. By that time I was able to settle down and started to enjoy the experience, even though

with no running water or showers. (The tent only took ½ hr to put up in the front yard in Sydney!) Some other girls nearby were still trying to hammer their pegs in 3 hours later. We were also visited by a dingo while putting up the tent. We found that he came around every time a new camper came in or people departed. It was obviously his territory and at night we could hear the dingoes howling. However, the night sky was full of stars so that was beautiful and a real bonus.

The next day we spent exploring the nearby Dales Gorge, the Fortescue River falls, Fern Pool and Circular Pool. Quite a steep path down but we were so pleased we made the effort. All the gorges in the Park are different in their own right and absolutely stunning. Fern Pool is suitable for swimming and there are falls at one end. Water is cold but warmer under the falls.

the next day we headed over through the Park to visit some of the other spectacular gorges in the area, about 60 km gravel each way. We called in at the Karinjini Eco Resort in the Savannah Campground (the only other camp ground in the Park) where Eco ensuite tents are available at $270.00 per night. We decided that our camp site was better, and besides we only paid $27.00 for three nights. Our first stop was the Weano Gorge and we walked down to the Oxer Lookout where four gorges – Weano, Hancock, Red and Wittenoom – converge. After lunch under a shade in the picnic ground, we went on to see the Knox Gorge and the Joffre Falls. The Joffre Falls didn’t have much water in them but the gorge is very steep and picturesque. Very serious walkers can get down to sit near the pool, but it can involve walking along cliff shelves and not our idea of fun. Much better for us to see the gorges from the lookouts.

Woke to heavy winds and it was time to pack up our camp, again no easy feat with the red dirt everywhere. Getting the tent back into the seemingly small bag, trying to minimize the red dirt, and packing up took longer than we thought so it was about 11.00 a.m. when we left the park, to travel over to the Hamersley Gorge. This was about a 100 km drive but it was well worth it. The Hamersley Gorge is quite different to the others and the markings on the wall gorges are quite dramatic and change as you get further down. We had walked down into the gorge so we could appreciate it . It was probably the most beautiful of the gorges we had seen.

Back into Tom Price where we were able to have a shower after four days and get rid of some of the red dirt from our skin and hair. and to get ready for our trip across to Karratha, which would include some 250 km of rough stony roads. We had a permit to travel the access road for the Railways and we wanted to test the car on this road in preparation for the Gibb River Road. Access is only available to a point about 40 km from the Millstream Chichester National Park but this was really a good test. The road is good in parts but in others you travel along stony creek beds with a couple of river crossings. We stopped for lunch at Python Pool in the Chichester Park. It is quite a popular spot and on the way down to the pool saw our first snake (it was only tiny brown snake but we were told they are still quite poisonous). A group of scouts from Karratha arrived to have lunch while we were there, having done a three hour hike from Mt Herbert nearby and they were going on to camp in the Park.



The next 60 km were quite rough and stony but we got through without a problem, although we passed others who were not quite so lucky. Great driving by Heinz and we were rather relieved to get to the sealed road north of Roebourne, about 37 km north of Karratha. We took the opportunity to go out to the historic town of Cossack, one of the earliest towns established in the Pilbara, initially for pearling. It became a ghost town in the 1950’s but some of the buildings have now been restored and it is a popular place for tourists. From there we drove on to Point Sampson which is enjoying a boost from the many tourists visiting the area.

Later that afternoon we arrived in Karratha, a service town for the many operations which are enjoying boom times – BHP, Rio Tinto, Dampier Salt & Woodside to name a few. Accommodation is very hard to get and very expensive. It has grown extensively from the early 1970’s when it was established to service the Hamersley Iron operations in Dampier.
Jean lived in Karratha in the mid 70’s and the “Hamersley” house she stayed in Hancock Way then is typically selling for up to $1,000,000 and rents of up to $2,000/week are being charged. Workers earn big money but a lot goes on rent. A couple at the caravan park were on 4 year contracts with Woodside, but they work 12 hour shifts on a 13 day roster. There is also caravan overflow facility at the Karratha Golf Club and in Dampier but you can only stay a maximum of 3 days, with special permits.

The next day we went into Dampier, the sea based export location for iron ore, travelling beside the salt ponds of Dampier Salt. It is quite a pretty port and is the gateway to the water recreation activities available amongst the 42 islands around the Dampier Archipelego.
We also went out to the Burrup Peninsula and saw the huge Woodside LG operation, before going around to Hearson’s Cove where tourists go to watch the “stairway to the moon”, so created by the moon and mud flats at certain times of the year. The Burrup Peninsula is also home to many of the early aboriginal rock paintings but they are fairly inaccessible.

Just a comment on the price of diesel, one of the other main topics of conversation with fellow travelers. It is really having a big impact on their travel plans.