Karratha to Broome

Karratha to Broome


After stocking up in Karratha and getting a new lid for our car frig, in preparation for a week of camping and not knowing whether or not we would get a powered site, we headed north for the Eighty Mile Beach, half way between Port Hedland and Broome. On the way we visited the famous Whim Creek Hotel, 80 km north of Karratha, a landmark in a former cyclone when the visitors sheltered in a container to wait out a cyclone. It had rained heavily during the night but was fine when we left. We subsequently heard when we were at the park that they had had very heavy rain out in the Karinjini on two nights and camping was very uncomfortable, particularly with the red iron ore dirt/mud. A young abseiler also had to be rescued as he had a broken leg. At the time there were news reports of an enquiry into the death of an SES volunteer who had been caught in a flash flood rescuing two separate walkers. It brings home how dangerous and unpredictable the gorges can be.

North of Pt Hedland it started to rain again and the prospect of putting up a tent in wet weather did not appeal. We were able to phone the park ahead and got a budget room for at least one night and then intended to pitch our tent. The room was very basic but had a frig, television and air conditioner, and was right outside all the amenities, bbq, camp kitchen etc. We were so comfortable we decided to stay on there for six nights and cancel a booking we had made to go into Barnhill Station, a cattle station on the beach further north, particularly when we heard some uncomplimentary remarks about it. The park had a very good kiosk and they baked fresh bread and pastries every morning.

We were about 100 metres from the beach which stretched as far as the eye could see. The water was shallow but very popular for fishermen. Several quite large threadfin salmon were caught while we were there, and one wall of the kiosk was full of photos of catches (only in the last couple of weeks). Swimming was not recommended at all, and during the time there we saw several stingrays in the water in about knee height water.

We spent the days taking long beach walks, and relaxing outside the cabin. One day we took the car for a drive up the beach but turned back when we got to a very rocky area. Put the awning up and had lunch anyway. The evening sunsets were brilliant and every evening took our chairs, camera and a drink to watch the sun set. On Sundays they have a market at which visitors sell their wares, and I saw a sign that there would be a hairdresser there, so lined up and had my hair cut out in the open by a hairdresser from Geraldton who was on a trip with her husband. One way of making pin money.

We met so many interesting people as we were so close to the bbq’s etc. Lots of retired and semi- retired, but also several families with young children,and backpackers from overseas. One very interesting guy came in one night on an off road motorcycle and we found he had travelled from London, across Europe, the Middle East, India and Asia, before putting his bike on a ship to New Zealand, where he again travelled all around there before arriving in Australia. He had been up through central Australia along the outback tracks, Darwin and through the Kimberleys and Karinjini and was heading south. His next plan was to ship the bike to South America and then ride from the southern tip up to Alaska. He has given himself several years to do the whole trip.

We were due in Broome for the 16th June so left 80 mile beach after a very relaxing time and arrived mid afternoon. Weather was around 29 deg. but a nice breeze made it very comfortable. After checking in and driving into China Town for a quick look we packed a picnic and headed for Cable Beach to watch the sunset. This time we had the added advantage of watching the camels going for their walks and arriving back just as the sun set. Well timed! There were many cars on the beach and it is a very popular pastime. We did this on several nights as each night, depending on the clouds, the sunsets are different.

Each day we took long walks and even ventured into the surf, which proved not so good for me as I got knocked over and had difficulty in getting up. Waves were dumping and there was a very strong undertow. Fortunately Heinz saw I was having a bit of trouble and came to help. We found a great place for a light lunch overlooking the beach so timed our walks so we could have lunch later.

We met up with some friends of Heinz from Mildura who were taking part in an off road bike trip around the Kimberleys. There were 24 of them in all with three support vehicles. They had trailed the bikes across the Tanami Desert Road, and from Broome took a two week trip right up into the Kimberleys into many gorges, and up to Cape Leveque, over some very rough roads. We met up again the following night to watch the “staircase to the moon”, one of the features of Broome when the moon and tides combine to create an illusion of a staircase across the sandy flats. Unfortunately the first night was very cloudy and the moon was not visible at all.

The next day we met up with a friend from Sydney, who had arrived into Broome after a trip from Darwin on an organized outback tour. It was very windy that day so that night we went back to see the staircase again and were rewarded by a most wonderful sight. A band was playing on the lawn and at the precise time the moon started to rise, a brilliant didgeridoo player played a traditional aboriginal tune for the rising of the moon. It was a very moving experience.

We really enjoyed our time in Broome, the weather was fine and warm, even if a bit windy, and the relaxed tropical nature of the place (and pearl shopping!), made it another great week, and time to regroup before heading off to the Kimberleys and along the Gibb River Road to Kununurra.