Derby to Drysdale Station

Derby to Drysdale Station

We set off from Derby after filling the petrol tanks, full of anticipation and ready to tackle the Gibb River Road 660 km to the turnoff to Wyndham. We knew it would provide all sorts of challenges, but were quite confident we would make it all the way. The first 60 km were sealed, and then had our first “road train”, a BP tanker headed for Barnett Roadhouse some 320 km away, but then came the start of the unsealed section. Our aim was to stay at Windjana Gorge National Park, on the Lennard River that night and the road to there was not so bad. We arrived to set up our camp about midday. This time the camp site was much better than the Karinjini and we were a little better equipped. The site was only a short distance from the start of the gorge and this time we had potable water, FLUSH toilets and showers (cold water only). We organized ourselves a nice site and set up quite quickly, relaxed with a picnic lunch and then went down in the afternoon to the gorge. Geologists regard the gorge as one of the classic features of world geology from the Devonian times, for nowhere else are the various deposits of an ancient reef complex so well exposed. The cliff faces in the afternoon are quite spectacular and on our walk to one of the lagoons saw our first fresh water crocodiles. One had caught a cormorant in his mouth and was quietly tucked into a corner, waiting for his prey to decompose a little. He was still in the area the following morning. Flocks of corellas flew overhead and it was a very peaceful site.

We woke next morning early and walked further up the gorge. It was a beautiful walk and this time there were dozens of crocodiles on the banks. Heinz got a lot closer than me. Supposedly fresh water crocodiles are not really a problem, but I wasn’t taking chances.

We packed a picnic lunch and then headed for Tunnel Creek, some 37 km towards Fitzroy Crossing. This was certainly a different experience as you walk some 750 metres along an enclosed gorge, entering the gorge with headlights (or some had torches) after climbing over big rocks and then wading through several pools and streams, in our case the deepest up to just above knee depth. When we finally emerged from the gorge Heinz climbed over some more big rocks and found some aboriginal rock art (not in the brochures). The whole walk took about 1-1/2 hrs. It was really an exhilarating experience and well worth the effort of getting back through the water and the rocky areas. We enjoyed lunch there before heading back to Windjana Gorge, and visiting the ruins of the Lillimooloora Homestead, constructed from local limestone in 1884 for the King Sound Pastoral Company. There we read the story of a young Bunuba aboriginal boy named Jandamamara who worked on the station in the 1800’s and at 14 was a top shearer, crack horseman and deadly with a rifle. At 17 he was arrested for spearing cattle, but he was allowed to continue working as he was so skilled. He eventually worked as a tracker with a white stockman in the police force. In the evening we found a bower bird nest near the shower block. They are so well built!

The next day we headed off via the Lennard River, Queen Victoria’s Head on the pass to the Napier Ranges and the King Leopold ranges. We went off the road for 20 km camped at Silent Grove, about 10 km from Bell Gorge. The site was very pretty and we set up camp again with potable water and cold showers, before relaxing for the afternoon and walking down to the creek, which has some small waterfalls. Unwittingly we had chosen a site where the corellas perched in the afternoon and then threw the seeds from “their” trees. They let us know in no uncertain terms (as only birds can do from a great height) that we had invaded their territory!

Next morning we drove down to the gorge car park and walked down the track into the gorge, about half an hour’s walk down a rocky path. I decided to stay at the first waterhole above the falls, but Heinz went further across the rocks and around to the bottom of the falls. We were warned the rocks were very slippery in one section and many people fell in the water trying to get across. Heinz had got across very easily, but on the way back also ended up in the water! Fortunately he saved the camera.
Bell Gorge is one of the prettiest on the whole Gibb River track, but is only one of many.

We set off next day with our target of Manning Gorge at Mt Barnett Station, dearest petrol on the whole trip at $2.28.5, visiting Galvin Gorge on the way. We were there by lunchtime, so decided to push on to Drysdale River Station, where we were able to get a “budget” room. After 4 nights camping hot showers were very welcome. Drysdale Station is on a property of 1 million acres (they run approx. 9000 – 10000 head of cattle), and the accommodation, although basic, was very comfortable. There was a licensed restaurant, with a beer garden and a store and is a stopping off point for people going up to the Mitchell Plateau and Kalurumba, an aboriginal precinct some 200 km north. Derby to Drysdale River Station